Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Distance (Gill)
So I guess it's my turn to post something. I'm not much of a writer as I feel much happier doing math but I figure I can give you all some numbers that may be helpful for tracking our progress. The first day of our walk, as Alissa mentioned, we walked from Portugalete to Pobeña the path is only about 11km to the albergue but we walked in circles around the city trying to find our way from the hostel in Bilbao to the metro (we had to take it since we were starting on a Sunday and needed to go to the pilgrim office in Portugalete since Bilbao was closed). After wandering around the cities for about four kilometers we found the path and decided to cut our losses and try and get our pilgrim credentials at the albergue in Pobeña since we couldn't find an open office anywhere.
NOTE TO OTHER PILGRIMS!! DO NOT TRY AND START YOUR WALK ON A SATURDAY OR SUNDAY. You cannot change money or get your credentials or find lots of food.
Upon arriving in Pobeña it was about 4pm and time to call it quits since the next albergue was very far way.
From Pobeña we walked to Castro Urdiales. A short cut was describe in our book but it was mostly highway walking and not official. While it was ten kilometers longer (6miles) we decided to take it thinking it was 17km total since that was the total at the top of the page in the book. Turns out the author gave the total distance of his recommended route for the day which happened to be the shortcut. That means we walked 27 excruciating kilometers. It wouldn't have been that bad had we not arrived tired and sore in Castro Urdiales thinking we were finally done, only to have to walk the 4.2km through city streets to get to the albergue. I was very proud of us though because we still arrived by 4pm and walked about 27km.
The next day we planned a short day of only about 13km since we were dead tired from the previous 27. We arrived in the very small town after walking in the freezing rain at around 1pm only to find that the only bar (bars are restaurants too) was closed and that to get food we would need to walk 3km to the nearest bar and then 3km back. Since you can all add you can see why that 6km would be almost just as much as walking 7km to Liendo where the next albergue was. So again we moved along that day going from Castro Urdiales to Liendo (20km).
Liendo was only 5km outside Laredo so when Alissa had her eye issue it was a short buss ride to the hospital. We're were planning on resting there for a day then walking to Noja (20km) and then to Guemes (17km) and then finally to Santander (another 17km) but she has to be at the doctor again in two days and can't open her eyes to walk. We are a little sad to miss this part of the walk but we do what we must.
There's a short recap of where we have been for the last few days!
-Gillian
Two steps forward, three steps back
Okay so today was perhaps the most disappointing and painful days. That little scratch in my eye, turns out its not so little and not a scratch. I slept horribly. I tossed and turn as water streamed from my eye and the window outside. My eye hurt a lot and I just kept praying "please let it be better in the morning. Well, when I woke up I couldn't open my eye. It was swollen and sad looking with shooting pains. My other eye was difficult to open because every time I tried the left one seized up. Ok, so waking was out of the question. The rain was pouring outside, so it is probably just as well. Still a doctors visit was in order. Gill texted mom, who has received several late night texts from us, and she came to our aid. (Thanks mom). With the address in hand we packed up our stuff and went to the bus stop. Gill led me there. There was actually a hospital along the bus path so we got out and went in. Thankfully my Spanish is pretty good cause I explained all my symptoms and saw the doc. He referred me to an ophthalmologist who said that I have an ulcer in my eye. Awesome. And yes that is as painful as it sounds. Poor Gill had just planned out our path for the next couple of days. I have to wear an eyepatch for 24 hours and see a doctor again in 48. That means little towns are out, so we had to take a bus to the next city. What would have been 3days walking turned in to 45 min and now we are hanging out until I can see the doc again. Sadly this means we miss the hostel everyone says you shouldn't miss. Alas, there is not much we can do about it. Thankfully eyes are generally fast healers.
The walking life
5-29-13
It has been a while since I have written. We have been busy. We have walked for two days over 20 kilometers each day. It was rough. The first day was about 27. For those of you keeping track at home that's about 18.2 miles. We have very tired feet. The next day was raining. Let me tell you walking 15 miles or so in the rain is not fun. It was cold and wet, but shorter than the day before. We prayed for sun and there were glimpses of it. Just as we were at the end of our ropes about mid day there was a little cafe at the top of the hill. We stopped for coffee and a croissant. They were both delicious and a blessing. I told the man running it as much. We made it at cooked dinner at a small albergue with a man who has been walking for three months. He came all the way from Germany. Suddenly our 3 days of walking didn't seem so long. Still we have been told the first 5-7 days are the worst. We do have our bruises and blisters. Also, now I have scratched my eye or something so we shall see how that goes.
One thing that I have found is that washing your feet can be the most blessed experience. We talk all the time about how Jesus and the disciples had their very dusty dirty feet washed but it is hard to imagine how wonderful that feels. After a long day of walking your feet ache just sitting there. Massaging them helps, but the most wonderful thing is washing them. Much like baptismal waters, the water that flows over your feet truly is reguninating and life giving. Okay. Until next time. Blessings.
Walking into...
5-27-13
We started walking today. We started on the metro and it was crazy. Little did we know that the stop we were headed for was the cite of a celebration. Much like the Fourth of July this celebration had marches and masses of people. With flyers and crowds, we were lost. We wandered and wandered and finally came to a group of official looking people. They had those neon yellow vests of information and hope. We asked them for the pilgrim office and they pointed as along. After wandering some more, there on the too of the hill has a fountain with a small shell on it. For those that don't know the whole Camino is marked with shells and yellow arrows. There are drinking fountains with agua vida(potable water, but literally living water) along the path as well.
Finding that little shell on the fountain was amazing. We felt as though we had just found salvation, found a light in darkness, found the way. We followed the small yellow arrows. Each one like a little beacon. They took us much to where we started, but we didn't care. At least we knew where we were going. We walked for another 8 miles before calling it quits for the day.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
A Day of Rest
Well we made it to Bilbao and Gill is feeling much better. No clue what happened, but we are heading out tomorrow. Continued prayers for her would be most appreciated. Now we rest up and prepare for tomorrow. The hostel we are staying in now is really high tech and well thought out. Shower heads that turn of every 30 seconds, brail on every sign and stair rail, and carefully planned our floors. On top of that already we have met a number of wonderful people. A helpful taxi driver gave us a tour and a blessing. A couple finishing their walk gave us helpful hints as we are together. People have been going above and beyond. Something about telling people you are doing this walk seems to open people up. It is a wonderful example of hospitality.
Trouble
Well we are off to a very rocky start. The planes and stuff have been fine, no delays and we have made all our connections. So what is rocky you ask? Well about an hour out of Paris Gill passed out. Like head rolling, arms twitching, non responsive passed out. Needless to say I panicked a little. Mostly I just said Gill, Gill, can you hear me a lot. Probably this was not the most helpful course of action. So then she wakes up, pukes, and feels a little better. Now we are sitting in the Paris airport(well I am sitting, she is laying on the floor). She feels rather crumby, dizzy, nauseous, etc. The next 2 hr plane ride should be fun. Now I only pray that this isn't something serious. I am not going to lie, the shock of seeing Gill like that hit home a little the risks that we are taking. What if that had happened in the middle of the trail? I guess we would do what we are doing now, try to make it to the next place and see what happens.
Friday, May 24, 2013
Walk With Us
Today we will board the plane and head out. Gill and I are definitely a little nervous, but I hope it is in a good way. As we prepared a common question we received was "who is going with you?". You cannot imagine the shock, awe, and sometimes horror we were met with when we each replied in turn, "my sister". I guess people really hold to the old adage safety in numbers. Still as we checked off our lists and set out our sandals, it became clear to me that there are a lot of people coming with us on this journey. Much like our preparation people want to be a part of this pilgrimage. From the gift of journals, hats, and even a carefully planned playlist, to the eager following of our blog, the want to join and be a pilgrim in the distance is astounding. We have people following from a hospital in Louisville to a school in Chicago. Churches, friends, family, and more. Perhaps there is something in this desire to join. There is a mystical and powerful piece to dropping mostly everything and walking. As we walk we will be reading Acts and Proverbs, a chapter of each a day. I invite you to read along. Come, walk with us.
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Pack lite
Graduation is finished, the move is complete for now. Gill and I have started packing, unpacking, and packing again. Because we are carrying so little, each thing seems so important. At the same time we are preparing ourselves to let go of each item if we find that we are carrying too much. It is a strange place to be, this space between holding on and letting go, between holding things dear and holding them as expendable. Both of us, I think, are beginning to feel the tension between relying on stuff for life and seeing it as unimportant. In the interest of packing lite, I will leave it at that.
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